Freshwater West
DETAILS
Freshwater West
14 miles from the cottage
Rugged, unspoilt and sometimes a backdrop for Hollywood
Freshwater West is a mere half an hour, by car, from the cottage. A wild stretch of golden sand looked after by the National Trust. Backed by dunes and rocks, this is a rugged stretch of the Pembrokeshire coastline.
Always a favourite with us for a beach walk and scramble over rock pools, Freshwater West is an utter treat. With thundering waves and and a huge expanse of golden sand, it is both dramatic and beautiful. A wonderfully unspoilt portion of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, where the skies are vast.
Perfect for surfing, beach walks and frisbee!
‘Freshwest’ as the locals call it, has a south-westerly aspect and is very popular with experienced surfers for good reason. Kitesurfing too for the very able! Take care though, the currents are very strong and there are no lifeguards here. It is perhaps classed as the Pembrokeshire capital for surfing, in Spring the Welsh National Surf Championships take place here. Fantastic for would be surfers to observe how the pros do it.
Not your typical family wave jumping beach due to the strong currents making it very unsuitable for little ones, Freshwater West is still the perfect beach for all seasons. Exploring and wandering the coastline is wonderful in both the colder and warmer months. In September you’re likely to find Atlantic Grey Seals around the rocks as they come close to shore to care for their pups. We haven’t seen this yet but is definitely an item for the bucket list.
When the tide is out the beach is perfect for frisbee, beach cricket or kite flying. A walk through the dunes is lovely and little ones will likely feel very small as they journey through them slipping and sliding to the bottom, then back up the other side. There are lots of rock pools to explore too. A fabulous beach for all ages.
As you explore the dunes you might spot the restored seaweed hut. Used by local women in years gone by to gather an edible seaweed called laver in Spring. Once gathered and washed the seaweed would be left to dry in the hut and eventually cooked for eight hours to make laver bread. Not actually a bread, more a Welsh delicacy now sold in jars, laver bread is apparently loaded with nutrients, where vitamins and minerals are in high quantities. We have yet to try some, but it is said to have an umami flavour.
Headland walks are spectacular
We recently went for a walk up on the headland and can highly recommend it. With the sea on your left, walk along the dunes and take the path off the beach before the rocks at the far end of the sand. Carry on up the path and you’ll find a gate. Pass through the gate and on up the hill. Eventually this path leads you around the headland towards Angle Bay; not that we’ve ventured that far yet. There are beautiful views out to sea here. It was nearly sunset on our visit and the light here is stunning. There’s a real sense of awe in the natural world here and a realisation that we are merely a small part of something much greater.
We didn’t stay for the sunset that evening but we have plans to go back one day soon. Being south westerly facing, it is the perfect place to witness one.
Once a foodies delight
Sadly you’ll need to take your own refreshments to ‘Freshwest’ these days. Anyone who is familiar with Freshwater West will know of the Cafe Mor Beach Food cabin that had a spot in the car park for years. Solar powered and selling incredible meat or seafood burgers and served with their specialty Seaweed Butter and Seaweed Kelpchup, it really was a foodies delight. You could even buy seaweed tea and jars of Welshman’s Caviar (dried laver seaweed seasoning). You can still buy these from their online shop, where you will also find marvellous seaweed and seafood delights.
Cafe Mor have since relocated to a new venture just around the coast at The Old Point House in Angle - opening soon we are told. Perhaps the perfect place for dinner after that sunset? Sounds rather perfect.
A Hollywood haunt
Not only famed for its seafood, Pembrokeshire has also provided stunning backdrops for some prestigious films. Freshwater West being one of them. Famous for being the location of Dobby’s Shell house in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, fans have made a grave for Dobby up in the dunes. Of course laying a stone here is all part of the fun, with diehard fans leaving socks for Dobby’s freedom too.
It was also used in the 2010 film of Robin Hood, staring Russell Crowe. While the scenes of the army advancing over the cliffs is not in Pembrokeshire, the combat on the beach was filmed at Freshwater West. With such a large expanse of beautiful golden sand, it’s not difficult to see why films have been set here.
Car parks and other things to note…
There is a National Trust car park opposite the steps leading down to the beach, which can get packed with visitors even in winter. However, cars often park on the roadside on the edge of the beach (respectfully of course), so we’ve never been completely stuck for a space. There are some very basic toilets located at the back of the car park.
Castlemartin firing range is very close to Freshwater West and you are likely to hear artillery firing practice regularly here. This can be a little eerie but no reason to miss out.
In case it hasn’t been clear already, the rip currents really are very strong here and unless you’re an experienced surfer/swimmer, it is best to stay out of the sea. Beach fires are forbidden here to preserve the dunes.
Freshwater West truly is a remarkably beautiful beach and one we highly recommend for a walk beside the sea. The sights and sounds really are restorative and you’ll want to return.